Bathymetry
Measurement of seabed depth. The seabed decides how the swell grows and breaks.
Other terms
Beach break · Breaking height · Confidence · Cross-shore wind · Crossed swells · Ensemble forecast · Forecast model · Gusts · Iribarren (breaker type) · Offshore wind · Onshore wind · Peak period · Period · Persistence · Point break · Range · Reef · Rip currents · Seabed relief (EMODnet) · Set · Shorebreak · Submarine canyon · Swell · Swell direction · Tidal range · Tide · Tide coefficient · Wind sea